Where there are trumpeting mariachis and birdbath margaritas, there are summer tourists – and scads of them. So many, in fact, that at Casa Guadalajara last week my dining companion and I were about the only duo in the place as parties of a zillion bumbled through the entrance of the hacienda-like structure to eagerly consume Mexican food stamped with that slapdash Old Town style.

With a seating capacity of nearly 370, the casa feels like a rolled-up version of El Torito, Tio Leo’s and On the Border, except that the motif is more colorful, with festive appointments and authentic architectural features plus a big outdoor patio.

The chaos was particularly reminiscent of the former Casa di Bandini, which was located a few blocks away. And that’s not surprising, given that it was run by the same owner, Diane Powers, who does a much better job wooing the neighborhood’s fajita-loving tourists than she does in convincing San Diegans to come back for the clumsy service and overly familiar American-Mex fare.

We did, however, encounter a few culinary twists. Of the ceviche that we ordered in our appetizer lineup, for example, the menu touts it as an award winner at the International Ensenada Seafood Competition. It’s served in a crock more fitting for French onion soup and uses excessively large pieces of sea bass that were indeed fresh. But the chilled red liquid dousing the fish was basically bloody Mary mix instead of citrusy marinade from limes and lemons.

Of the Camaroncitos Fritos, we got a generous portion of shrimp coated heavily in greasy batter that reminded me of my recent forage through the Del Mar Fair food stands. Three dipping sauces came on the side, a pleasant salsa verde, a terribly bland white jalapeno paste and a dark-rust colored chipotle dip, which our waiter said was cilantro sauce until we corrected him. He also didn’t know what a mojito was when my companion tried ordering one. If it ain’t a margarita or Corona you want, then you’d best get out of dodge because customers here aren’t even given a drink list unless they request one.

We also augmented our first course with a decent Caesar Salad that was dusted in low-grade Parmesan cheese and presented with the omnipresent fried tortilla shell protruding from one side of it. At this point in our meal, the entire multi-tiered dining room was filled to capacity and the mariachis drew cheers after singing “Happy Birthday” to two different tables – this amid an army of wait staff zigzagging frantically through the commotion wearing giant trays of food and drinks on their shoulders.

From a newly implemented list of daily specials, we moved on to Wednesday’s Shrimp Cheese Crisp, a spacious tostada of sorts piled up with nicely prepared refried beans, tomatoes, avocado slices, guacamole, sour cream and a formidable mantle of cheese. Playing hide-and-go-seek in the gloppy fray were about six sweet Mexican white shrimp. The dish carries over from Casa di Bandini and calls for a digestive nap if you dare eat the whole thing.

My companion’s Carne Asada & Grilled Shrimp plate was predictable. Not bad, not great. The shrimp were encased in their shells and moist inside. The flank steak was sliced thin and appeared overcooked, but surprised me with a low resistance to the teeth. I will say, however, that if I were a first timer to guacamole from some podunk state, I’d be sucking up the side servings of it with a straw. I found it to be exceptionally bright and wholesome.

Another entrée, Pescado a la Primavera, was recommended by our waiter. Three flat slabs of lightly salted sea bass sat well atop a sweet mango salsa that was speckled with bits of poblano chilies. The sweet and spicy contrast played nicely with the bass, which by itself can be too subtle in taste.

Most everything on the menu comes with rice and fairly large loads of sour cream and guac – enough to dip your remaining table chips into if you’re this much in need of a Mexican food fix. My advice is to avoid dishes with cheese because it’s used too liberally, as well as those pointed up with the insipid jalapeno sauce, which I suspect could be the detriment to such items as the Enchiladas Trio and Seafood Chimichanga.

While the menu features everything that your Aunt Betty from North Dakota would find adventurous – the taco-enchilada-tamale combos – those with less pedestrian appetites might take solace in a few livelier dishes I spotted such as Mango Chipotle Chicken, Grilled Sea Bass with orange juice and cilantro butter or shredded pork with marinated red onions and achiote sauce.

Just be prepared to dine with the masses as though it was Cinco de Mayo.