The concept of “small plates” has been hotly debated lately among restaurant goers who are encountering these quaint victuals with greater frequency at a growing number of trend-setting eateries throughout the country.

CH1VE is the latest in the pack to join the bandwagon of San Diego restaurants serving small plates exclusively, which are presented with the same panache seen at Confidential, Red Pearl Kitchen, Lei Lounge and Apertivo, to name a few. Café Sevilla, coincidentally, winks from across the street. It’s credited for introducing the Spanish ritual of tapas to local foodies long before its non-European counterparts began sending out plunks of food that can be polished off sometimes faster than it takes to graze through a petite ramekin of olives.

Opponents of small-plate menus argue that they pay too much for too little. And within that lot are those diners who simply don’t like to share. On the plus side, customers are exposed to a wider sampling of flavors and preparations that can more thoroughly frame the culinary genius of a particular chef. The added bonus is that small plates incite an interactive dining experience that teases out the food critic from everyone at the table.

CH1VE’s very recent transition to small plates may be less trailblazing than it is necessary for appeasing downtown night crawlers who would rather skip going out altogether than arrive at their favorite clubs after dinner showing a hint of bloat. The restaurant’s new chef de cuisine, Joe Magnanelli, keeps waistlines in check with largely lean “bites” while arousing the senses with intricately crafted recipes that are well worth their price.

Magnanelli uses fresh local produce and shops from Hamilton Meats, which draws from livestock all over the world. The most expensive items on the menu are Kobe Beef Carpaccio with candied lemon and New Zealand Lollipop Lamb with parmesan polenta – each priced at $17 and both offering meat so succulent that I barely needed to put my teeth to work.

Our party of five hopscotched all four sections of the menu: vegetable, ocean, farm and sweet. In the case of Chick Pea Crepes – two delicate tubes encasing chilled spinach, crescenza cheese and deep-red pequillo peppers – we requested a double order as it won hands-down approval from the entire table. More elaborately presented and equally enjoyable was Beet Terrine, a Napoleon-style stacking of beets, goat cheese, hazelnut and arugula. The plate was decorated with a skid of port gastrique.

Bewitching chive oil appears alongside Hamachi Ceviche, pointed up also with lemon crème fraiche and avocado for added creaminess. Seafood lovers should also consider the substantial steamed Tai Snapper, a plump rolled filet flanked by fresh mussels in a milky curry broth. Also outstanding were the Corn Crusted Diver Scallops of monstrous size. I loved the scant crunchy edges from the cornmeal and the thick bits of bacon lurking under a puff of bacon foam. However, of the Blue Prawn Spring Roll set in English pea wasabi puree and mango coulis, I longed for the ginger listed in its description.

Between plates we sipped from shot glasses filled with zesty Chilled Tomato Soup that includes the chef’s version of grilled cheese – a heavenly spear of toasted brioche with warm melted Irish sharp cheddar. We also picked from a bowl of edamame sprinkled invisibly with Old Bay Seasoning. (The chef grew up in Maryland and admits that it’s his way of bringing to the restaurant “a little bit of back home.”) It was at CH1VE where I first encountered the soybeans served as a complimentary meal starter. I’m pleased the amenity is still in place.

Only one person in our party sneered at the Braised Kurobuta Pork, saying that she encountered too much fat. What she took away merely revealed to the rest of us a sizable hunk of fork-tender meat lurking beneath that was coated in black currant and mustard glaze. Hearty, too, was the Brandt Farms Beef Tenderloin wearing a frilly hat of rich and crusty marrow and served with Peruvian potatoes, morel mushrooms and white corn. Who says that “small plates” are never filling?

From the CH1VE of yesterday is Kinda Rice Pudding, which I recalled devouring when eating here three years ago. It’s made with a layer of rice pudding at the bottom, chocolate Rice Krispies in the center and vanilla crème brulee on top. But the newest sensation on the dessert menu is an excellent Peanut Butter Fondue, a sweet and salty “melt” served with a chocolate-covered banana, a block of marshmallow and five-spice sandie cookies on the side. I passed on the dippers and dove in feverishly with my spoon.

While the menu is radically revised, the ambience at CH1VE still leans toward a minimalist design that pioneered the way for other restaurants in the area when it first opened some five years ago. Comfortable banquettes, smart lighting and a stylish bar along with informed wait service and a wine and spirits list catering to many tastes all add up to an exciting revival. Got a food scoop? E-mail it to editor@uptownpub.com.