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Joseph Nigro, preparing to serve his near-perfect crab cakes
dining out
North Park’s crab cake king
Published Thursday, 21-Aug-2003 in issue 817
Nothin’ says lovin’ like crab cakes from the oven. Just ask the scores of people who have marveled over Joseph Nigro’s sensational grease-free recipe.
The Normal Heights resident, a former chef and now a sales rep for Skolout & Tilghman Estate Company, has been whipping up his “little numbers” ever since he was a teenager, often for parties and intimate social gatherings. Delectably chunky and lightly seasoned, the “cakes” are baked in mini-muffin pans with real back-fin lump crab and very little filler.
“There are a lot of faux crab cakes out there made with either Pollock or canned crab,” he notes. “Some crab cakes hurt my eyes because I can’t even find the meat in them.”
Nigro recalls falling in love with crab cakes many years ago at a restaurant in New Jersey, before he attempted to recreate the recipe at home. In subsequent visits to Maryland he says he “ravaged through the state to eat as much crab as possible.”
Thus, on special occasions, Nigro will ask his friends back east to ship the crabmeat to San Diego overnight, which he admits “gets a little spendy.” Otherwise he purchases his main ingredient from El Pescador Fish Market in La Jolla, where the fresh blue-claw crabmeat averages about $20 per pound.
When shopping for the crabmeat, Nigro says he avoids buying from the “bottom of the supply,” when the crab appears too shredded. He instead looks for “the lollipops,” a term used in Maryland to describe the succulent lump of flesh that pops from the shell after properly twisting the crab from its back fin.
And those “lumps,” he advises, should be carefully folded into the other ingredients in order to successfully preserve their firmness through the baking and eating process. “A lot of people stir up the ingredients too much and end up with hash,” notes Nigro.
Unlike traditional, pan-fried crab cakes, Nigro binds the meat loosely by using only a small amount of egg and mayonnaise. “The trick is to keep the crab cake light and airy without intruding on the lumpy consistency.”
Accompanying sauces and garnishes are kept to a minimum as well, so as not to upstage the delicate flavor of the crab. A tartar recipe made with capers instead of relish — or a beurre-blanc sauce — are Nigro’s favorites for drizzling over the finished product. But cocktail sauce is a no-no, because it is too powerful.
Nigro’s recipe has made converts out of people who don’t normally like seafood. One friend, who is allergic to shellfish, partakes anyway. “He risks death whenever I make them,” Nigro jests.
Included here is Nigro’s tantalizing, special recipe — one you won’t find in any cookbook.
Joseph’s Near-perfect Crab Cakes
(makes 12 to 15 bite-size cakes)
He risks death whenever I make them.
1 pound back-fin lump crab
1 egg
1 egg white
2 tablespoons of mayonnaise
2 tablespoons of Old Bay seasoning
1 tablespoon of paprika
1/4 cup of Panko bread crumbs
1 tablespoon of baking powder
1 tablespoon of Grey Poupon Mustard
1 teaspoon of Worcester sauce
1/8 lb. of clarified butter
Approx. 5 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
Pinch of salt and pepper
Blend all ingredients except the crab and breadcrumbs in a mixing bowl. Then add one tablespoon of baking power and stir until mixture begins to slightly foam. Gently fold in the crab and breadcrumbs. Cover and refrigerate mixture for a few hours or overnight. Spoon into a 24-mold, non-stick cupcake pan and press down firmly, filling as many molds as possible until mixture runs out. Place pan into a 375-degree preheated oven and bake for about 15 minutes until golden brown. Invert the tin onto a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper, arrange on serving plate, and serve immediately. Garnish with ancho chilis or additional chopped chives.
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