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Blue Point’s Grilled Marinated Pork Chops
dining out
Epicurious Eating: Blue Point Coastal Cuisine
Where the waiters are handsome and seafood is king
Published Thursday, 29-May-2003 in issue 805
It was one of those dining experiences that left me with a few regrets. No, I didn’t trip out of an unkempt restroom with toilet paper stuck to my soles. Nor did I forget my doggie bag. I instead came away pining over the fact that it had taken me this long to sample the culinary fruits and easeful atmosphere of Blue Point Coastal Cuisine.
Dozens of mediocre dinner outings were made up for as I chomped on some exceptional Smoked Salmon with Crème Fraiche — and watched my dining companion wiggle with excitement over the richest, sweetest lobster bisque in town. Whole loaves of fresh crusty bread remained in constant reach. And from our cushy oyster-shell booth, I quickly realized that so many of those lackluster meals with friends and colleagues in the past could have been much nicer if only I poked my nose into this stylish Gaslamp restaurant sooner.
Belonging to the Cohn Restaurant Group’s culinary empire, Blue Point is a sibling of Kemo Sabe, Indigo Grill, The Strip Club, Corvette Diner and The Prado. Coveted locations and generous food portions reveal their kinship. But when you start comparing menus, each restaurant seems to come from entirely different families.
Here, the main theme is seafood. If the resplendent aquarium at the entrance doesn’t give it away, then the “hook,” “line” and “sinker” sections on the menu will. There is also an “oyster bar” category from which our terrific Smoked Salmon Plate sprung. It featured a heap of clean-tasting fish accented with a few dollops of vodka crème fraiche, lots of capers and brioche toast points.
I would be remiss not to gush over the ever-present lobster bisque … so outstanding, we could have slurped it through a fire hose.
Our table initially gave way to some dynamite cocktails as well. They’re served “Dean Martin” style — in double doses with your backup buzz kept on ice in miniature glass carafes. The perfectly mixed Blue Point Manhattan strikes a cozy match with the restaurant’s quasi art-deco interior. And the Smokey Gold Martini, made with Stoli Vodka, receives a splash of aged Macallan Scotch for added potency and flavor.
Sipping turned to slurping, however, with the arrival of our soups. You’ll be lucky if you visit on a night when the Curry-Carrot soup is available. Made with a dash of coconut milk, the sweet and spicy flavors are infatuating. But I would be remiss not to gush over the ever-present lobster bisque — a made-to-order creation cooked in a sauté pan with loads of cream, sherry and rosemary. So outstanding, we could have slurped it through a fire hose.
Our expert waiter, Chris, staggered each course with precision timing as we moved on to Shrimp and Lobster Potstickers. These killer half-moons are generously stuffed and brushed with a zippy lemongrass ponzu glaze. A generous bundle of julienned hot-and-sour cucumbers made for a fitting sidekick.
My companion’s Pan Seared Dayboat Scallops were extraordinarily large and fresh. The entrée is accompanied with goat-cheese and portobello ravioli and dressed with caramelized shallot-herb sauce. It’s among several seafood dishes that are embellished with gourmet emulsions and flavorings: Citrus Swordfish, Australian Lobster with sherry-saffron sauce, and Mahi Mahi in sour cherry Pinot Noir reduction, to name a few.
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Blue Point white chocolate poured over a soufflé tableside
But the Marinated Grilled Pork Chops kept winking at me from the foot of the menu, where you’ll also find Maple Leaf Duck, Rack of Colorado Lamb and Shelton Farms Chicken Breast. The chops, glazed with pineapple-jalapeno marmalade, are a telling indication of the kind of portions the kitchen sends out. Both were huge and juicy. And I loved how the balsamic-cider sauce interacted with the meat and garlic-mashed potatoes.
Among the more labor-intensive dishes cooked here is an airy Harlequin Chocolate Soufflé, which doesn’t collapse when you scream over it with excitement. We could barely contain ourselves when the server started pouring white and dark chocolate sauce over it — a sensual delight if you like hot chocolate and handsome waiters with big hands!
The dessert takes about 30 minutes to make, so you’ll need to plan ahead. And if you don’t … well there are plenty of warm cognacs and pricey after-dinner cordials on the menu to help soak up the wait time. Or you can nurse a bottle of wine from a selection that trots through some of the world’s finest vineyards and estates.
In this concentrated, confusing jungle of restaurants that is the Gaslamp District, Blue Point appears a worthy king.

Blue Point Coastal Cuisine
565 Fifth Ave., Downtown; (619) 233-6623; Hours: 5:00 to 10:00 p.m., Sunday through Thursday; until 11:00 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays.
Service: 
4.0 stars
Atmosphere: 
4.0 stars
Food Quality: 
4.0 stars
Cleanliness: 
4.0 stars

Price Range: 
$$$
4 stars: outstanding
3 stars: good
2 stars: fair
1 star: poor
$: inexpensive
$$: moderate
$$$: expensive
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