dining out
Secrets to making steakhouse steaks
Published Thursday, 28-Sep-2006 in issue 979
Steakhouses are popping up like dandelions throughout San Diego and other big cities. And as any allegiant carnivore will attest, they crank out the best-tasting steaks, which home cooks can’t ever seem to achieve in their own kitchens.
But indeed they can.
Given the high price tag that comes with quality steakhouse dining, consumers can replicate the experience at less than half the cost, and with Béarnaise dipping sauce on the side to boot.
For a truly outstanding home steak dinner, especially if you’re entertaining, consider spending a few extra dollars on a 5- to 6-pound beef tenderloin from Costco, Iowa Meat Farms or Siesels. The cut will yield about seven 8-ounce filets.
Start by removing the flabby “chain” running along the bottom of the meat with a pairing knife. Trim away the silvery membrane and fat covering the tenderloin. Then remove the tail sections and cut the center piece into 2-inch filets and you’re ready to go. Naturally, if you buy the filets already cut, you’ve saved yourself the step of trimming.
Veteran chefs rely on a foolproof cooking method that involves searing the filets first on the stove in an ovenproof pan over high heat. This creates a deep brown crust that is vital to retaining the meat’s texture and flavor while creating a barrier that seals in the juices. The next trick is to transfer the filets into a pre-heated, 425-degree oven in the same searing pan to finalize the cooking process.
The rule-of-thumb time chart for achieving desired “doneness” is equally simplistic. For rare, sear (always on one side only) for five minutes, then turn the filets over and transfer to the oven for five minutes. Extend the oven time to seven minutes for medium-rare, and to nine minutes for medium. If you’re the type who insists on turning a good piece of meat into a well-done slab of jerky, then save your money and shop for those cheaper cuts of beef labeled “great for the barbecue.” The beauty of tenderloin and other top-quality cuts of beef is their velvety softness when they are cooked medium or less.
In yet a final round of cooking tips that add decadence, finish the filets off with a pat of butter as they come out of the oven and let stand for a few minutes before serving – or give them a French kiss with the Béarnaise sauce recipe listed below.
Béarnaise Sauce
(Makes 1 1/2 cups)
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
1/4 cup dry white wine
3 tablespoons minced shallots
1 tablespoon fresh tarragon, chopped
2-3 tablespoons water
4 egg yolks
1 cup unsalted butter, melted
Juice of a half lemon
Dash of salt, white pepper and cayenne to taste
Bring vinegar, wine, shallots and tarragon to a boil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Boil until liquid is evaporated (about five minutes). Remove from heat source and add water, then whisk in egg yolks until frothy. Gradually drizzle in the butter, whisking constantly to incorporate. Sauce should be thick, but thin it slightly with a few more drops of water if needed. Strain sauce through a medium-mesh strainer into a heatproof cup. Season with lemon juice, salt and the powdered peppers.
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