My desire for steak lately seems out of control. I’m either in some sort of weird survival mode over the summer beef shortage, or else my partner’s Midwestern roots finally got the best of me. Whatever the case, if you toss me a slab of cow, I’ll wolf it down rarer than normal and probably walk away suckling the bone.

In the throes of this carnivorous madness, I recently ended up at a place that had somehow escaped my radar — Prime 10 Steakhouse in Del Mar. The structure is located within eyeshot of the San Diego Polo Fields along a non-commercial stretch of Via de la Valle — and within a white-plaster structure that appears better suited to an insurance company than an expensive eatery. A ridiculously crammed parking lot and long traffic light for entering it marks the spot.

Yet the restaurant’s name accurately describes a main slice of the menu. All cuts of beef are prime grade. And the two steaks that my dining companion and I devoured scored a juicy “10” in terms of flavor, marbling and presentation. Things like Grilled Salmon, Beef Short Ribs and Roast Veal Tenderloin would have to wait for another visit, we felt.

An order of delicately battered Buttermilk Onion Rings started our repast. They were stacked in the shape of a Christmas tree, garnished with budding green sprouts and served with a zesty aioli. Very good, except the dish yields more than enough onions for two people. We also ordered the only two soups on the menu — a mediocre French Onion Gratinee and a catchy and semi-spicy Lobster Bisque, the kind that carries a deep rusty-orange color rather than creamy pink.

The Boston Lettuce Salad that we intended to share ended up in my possession because the companion was dissuaded by the heavy amount of dressing on it. I didn’t mind, however. The greens remained fresh and tender and the bacon throughout tasted as though it was fried and crumbled to order.

The arrival of our steaks not only set our taste buds aflutter, they distracted me from the tedious din of the dining room, which was packed solid with loud-talking customers and annoying cacklers the evening of our visit. On the surface Prime 10 looks like a quiet restaurant, with its soft lighting and plush upholstered seating. Yet when you pack too many tables into wide-open spaces, I guess it’s foolish to expect the tranquility of a Zen garden. A jazz singer/keyboardist struggling with Boz Scaggs tunes in the bar area only exacerbated the noise level.

With that said, my companion’s boneless, double-cut New York Steak was fantastic — a notch more delectable than my glistening and commodious T-bone, given that it was free of gristle. From the list of sauce accompaniments, we chose a red wine demi glacé and a peppercorn-brandy reduction. Both were excellent, but they got cast aside once we realized that our steaks were of such high quality. Both dinners included a serving of firm mashed potatoes and some excellent green beans that sucked in the flavor of the mushrooms mixed throughout.

Service was impeccable and perhaps overly formal in an atmosphere that carries the same type of bustle as a TGI Friday’s — albeit with higher prices, prime-grade steaks and polo-savvy customers. Additionally, the restaurant’s wine list carries a divine array of varietals, including Pinot Grigios from Italy, Petite Syrahs from Napa, crisp Chardonnays from Sonoma and everything in between.

Live performances by Archie Thompson take place between 6:00 and 9:00 p.m., Monday through Friday. And from 5:00 to 7:00 p.m. on weekdays, appetizers such as Pan Seared Scallops, Maryland Crab Cakes and Mediterranean Spiced Soft Cheese are half price. Just don’t go home without digging into a steak.