Allergy sufferers hate it. And chefs pay big bucks for the stuff. Who would have thought that pollen from the Foeniculum vulgare plant (otherwise known as fennel) would hit the culinary scene with the thrust of a sudden sneeze attack?

When used as a spice, pure fennel pollen elevates the flavor of food to exciting new heights, beyond anything that the bulbs or seeds from fennel can offer on their own. Some say the aromatic pollen tastes a little bit like curry. Others struggle to describe its unique anise flavor, which is much brighter and sweeter than regular fennel. But one thing is certain. The dried yellowish substance has quietly established itself in the spice racks of top-notch kitchens around the country, including a few in our own backyard.

Marine Room Executive Chef Bernard Guillas uses his own newly developed commercial blend of the spice in dishes such as Steelhead Salmon and Asian Prawns. He also sneaks it into recipes at other restaurants where he cooks — The La Jolla Beach & Tennis Club and the Sea Lodge Hotel.

The product line, called Spice of the Angels, incorporates pure fennel pollen with a wild array of other spices tailored for fish, meat, game and vegetables. Six different “blends” in all, they caught the attention of cooking masters at San Francisco’s Fancy Food Show in January and bewitched judges from the National Culinary Review.

Guillas obtains his fennel pollen from business partner David Firman of Sugar Ranch, a grower and distributor based in Visalia, California. The plants are harvested from their wild habitats along California’s moist central coast. And the pollen is then plucked, dried and mixed with ingredients such as crushed toasted pecans, chervil flakes, ground annatto, sour plum powder, date sugar and French sea salt.

Until recently, an ounce of pure fennel pollen ran about $45 an ounce, which exceeded the cost of saffron. But increased production in the U.S., Italy and Asia has driven down the price by more than half, although it still remains hard to find in retail stores.

“Pure pollen is sold primarily to chefs,” says Guillas. “I don’t know of any stores in San Diego that carry it.”

Firman sells about 350 ounces a week to cutting-edge restaurants in New York City, Aspen, San Francisco and Washington, D.C. — and always keeps a personal stash handy for making grilled salmon, pork roast and turkey. “It gives everything a great herbal taste, a real cool flavor, something that you can’t describe until you try it.”

Guillas admits that he’s been cooking with pure fennel pollen for almost two years, but now prefers using it in his carefully crafted blends. The product line is packaged in one-ounce tins that are labeled with catchy names such as “Zen-Sational” for vegetable dishes, “Hog Heaven” for poultry and pork, and “M-Ocean” for seafood. The entire set of six, along with a recipe book, cost $50. Individual containers sell for $10 apiece.

“You use the blends like salt and pepper — in mayonnaise, vinaigrette, potato salads or sprinkled on meats. A few pinches goes a long way and makes everything taste wonderful.”

Spice of the Angeles can be purchased by calling (800) 821-5989, or by visiting www.fennelpollen.com.