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A bestseller translated recently to English
dining out
Christmas on a silver spoon
Published Thursday, 14-Dec-2006 in issue 990
A few weeks ago, I received an early Christmas present from a good friend of mine, who described in teasing terms before I opened it: “It’s smaller than a bread box, but heavier. Something you said you always wanted.”
I remained clueless until I tore open the wrapping and laid eyes on the silver spoon pictured on the front of the bestselling namesake cookbook that reveals within its covers more than 2,000 of the very best recipes from Italian families and accomplished chefs.
It wasn’t until a year ago that The Silver Spoon (Phaidon Press Inc.) was translated into English, a laborious effort that involved retaining the authenticity of the 1,263-page tome, originally published in 1950. The weighty book, complete with silk tassels built into its binding to mark favorite pages, is one of the most popular household resources throughout Italy and is a common wedding and holiday gift among Italian families. Since its first press run, the book has never been out of print.
Americans are shown how to cook meals collected from every region throughout Italy. And in cases where recipes call for ingredients not commonly found outside of Italy, the editors took meticulous steps to provide alternative solutions. For instance, use chuck steak or brisket in lieu of beef cheeks for making a provincial meat ravioli dish; or gin to replace hard-to-find myrtle liqueur for making a shoulder of lamb roast meant to be soused in pungent alcohol.
From Genovese pesto minestrone and scrambled eggs in potato-Parmesan nests to sensational meat and pasta dishes, the recipes are listed in their original Italian titles with English translations alongside. The photography is especially noteworthy and will send readers rushing to their kitchens faster than it takes to chew down gnocchi. Nearly 200 new images were added for the English edition, all shot by distinguished food photographer Jason Lowe, who used white crockery or the pans in which the recipes were cooked to ensure that the food looked as natural as possible.
Among my favorite chapters that will prove valuable when trying to perfect these sometimes-clumsy hands in the kitchen is one focusing on risottos. It features nearly 25 recipes for mixing the Arborio rice with things like blueberries, salmon, pumpkin and various cheeses. And while I pretty much possess the knowledge for making fresh pastas and quick sauces to accompany them, the book will become a lifesaver when attempting to pull off recipes for meat pates, cheese canapés, authentic veal osso buco – or, God forbid, brains au gratin, calf heart kabobs and woodcock with green apples.
The Silver Spoon also comes with a baking section that explains how to make molds and puddings, “speedy” puff pastry, tart shells, custards and more. And look no further for the classic recipes for tiramisu, Italian trifle and refreshing lemon gelato.
Comprehensive glossaries highlighting cooking terms and kitchen equipment provide a breadth of information in the front of the book that rivals the course material found in many culinary arts beginner classes. Numerous recipes for making hot and cold sauces used in myriad international recipes are not excluded.
The final chapter features profiles and menus of several celebrated chefs, including those of American media hound Mario Batali, a Food Network celebrity and owner of Manhattan’s Babbo Ristorante. Others include Venetian chef Arrigo Cipriani and chef Maria Pia de Razza-Klein, who heads a local chapter of the Slow Food Movement in her adopted homeland of New Zealand.
Whether you’re looking for a last-minute Christmas gift or simply need to boost your cooking knowledge, The Silver Spoon is the Italian mama of all cookbooks and retails at $39.95. Just don’t tell my friend that he accidentally left the price tag on my copy.
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