It isn’t unusual for Chef Carl Schroeder to be talking on his cell phone about meat and fish in the predawn hours. As chief proprietor of the new Market Restaurant + Bar, the young restaurateur scrupulously assesses from a battery of purveyors what the highest quality food commodities of the day are being offered. And what ends up on the table afterward is nothing short of terrific.

Market’s menu changes daily according to the freshest fish plucked from the oceans (not always from San Diego waters), the most prized cuts of meat harvested from reputable farms and the choicest seasonal produce money and brains can buy. Schroeder then exerts his creative prowess for masterminding daily menus that fit into no particular box, except to say that he’s feeding you a piece of the market. On any given night, the menu can collectively absorb the culinary influences of Europe, the Americas and Asia, and then change again mid-evening if certain ingredients run out.

Schroeder opened the restaurant late last year after making an indelible name for himself as executive chef of Arterra. He teamed up with seasoned restaurateur Terryl Gavre, who also owns the hip downtown eatery Café 222. Together they transformed what was formerly the Black Horse Grille (and before that, Prime 10 Steakhouse) into what is now being called the hottest new restaurant in the region.

A “spycam” in the kitchen transmits the cooking action onto a flat-screen television perched on a wall in the bar lounge. The brisk live images that greeted my companion and I fit the energy of the dining room, which was filled to capacity on this Monday night. Armed with a reservation, as you should be too, we were seated at a smallish table for two along a colorfully upholstered banquette. The atmosphere is artfully organic, punctuated by moss and pod plants, easeful lighting and faded blue jeans donned by an astute wait staff.

Having eaten ahi a trillion different ways in the past several years, Schroeder’s starter course was a melt-in-your-mouth wonder sporting a porcini mushroom and coriander crust drizzled with mild roasted chili vinaigrette. Separating the three small portions, each of them set atop a peck of sticky rice, were finger-shaped forest mushroom spring rolls that perfectly matched the freshness of the fish.

Sweet prawns from Maine intertwined with lemon-braised fennel comprised another snazzy appetizer. The dish came with petite potatoes packing a rich natural flavor and a skid of creamy, herbed remoulade. Super comforting was the French Onion & Braised Beef Soup that followed, and of which I vote should never leave this menu! It contained giant croutons enveloped by melted aged white cheddar, plus beautifully caramelized onions and savory chunks of beef that became our clue as to how wonderfully fork-tender an entrée of braised beef short ribs we ordered would turn out.

Yet before moving forward, we gobbled down a dish of meaty artichoke hearts (with a few leaves left on) cooked in oil, thyme, garlic and chardonnay. Sharing plate space was a small stack of prosciutto forming the nest for one of the freshest, most velvety poached eggs I’ve ever eaten. A chicken egg, no less, although on some nights you could end up with a quail’s egg – just depends on Schroeder’s pick of the day.

The aforementioned Beef Short Ribs entrée is the only permanent item on the menu. “Little nuggets of love,” said our waiter as he presented the arrangement of individually stacked meat to my companion.

And indeed so. Schroeder’s braising technique is commendable. Rather than simply dousing the ribs with red wine from the start, he pre-constructs the “braise” with stock, cabernet, roasted garlic and root vegetables, reduces the mixture and then tosses in the meat. The ribs were incredibly rich in flavor and each pod of meat was crowned with wilted choy sum greens. Hiding beneath them at a corner of the plate were sweet onion potatoes whipped to a creamy, decadent finish.

My entrée, Maine Dayboat Scallops & Pot Roast Ravioli, was an ambitious dish that struck me as odd only when I combined the two fleshes in my mouth concurrently. The savory pot roast filling in the ravioli, as well as the pinot noir jus on the plate, didn’t marry with the scallops’ ocean sweetness. Yet when eaten separately, I enjoyed both. Equally unique was a tidy trail of finely cubed roasted vegetables running alongside – turnips, carrots and rutabaga – doctored nicely with tarragon and chives.

Last but not least, we tried the Tempura Black Sea Bass fished from East Coast waters, which means that it’s whiter and flakier that its West Coast brethren. We couldn’t stop effusing about the fish, which sported a helium-like tempura that seemed to prolong the delicate flavor of the sea bass on the tongue. A small salad of Asian noodles tossed in orange juice, yuzu and fresh chilies was an ideal accompaniment.

From the medium-sized wine list I discovered the joys of Porcupine Ridge Syrah from South Africa, which offered an earthy fruit and glycerin finish that paired swimmingly with everything we ate. Imported beers and cocktails are also available.

Desserts fall into the talented hands of acclaimed pastry chef James Foran, who has been written up in Chocolatier Magazine and other national publications. His espresso panna cotta struck remarkable balances between rich and airy, bitter and sweet. More novel were the golden-brown cubes of tapioca made with a touch of mascarpone cheese and coated in panko breadcrumbs.

If you’re headed to Del Mar, this is one heck of a “market” worth visiting.