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dining out
Where’s the beef?
Published Thursday, 22-Feb-2007 in issue 1000
Unless your parents were butchers or you underwent some dramatic dissection lessons in high school biology – most urbanites haven’t a clue as to what section of the cow they’re buying when angling for that perfect beef roast.
Supermarkets carry many different types of roasts, but often with confusing labels and in the absence of a meat expert who can explain the difference between tri-tip and tenderloin. Or ask your restaurant server what cut of beef is piled on that French dip sandwich you ordered, and they’ll likely respond with an “I dunno, but it’s pretty lean today.”
Fans of roast beef know that’s not always the case. Tender cuts with little connective tissue, such as rib roast, respond well to dry-heat cooking (roasting). And tougher cuts from the shoulder or heavily exercised parts of the animal, for instance, turn soft and tender mainly from braising.
Below is a listing of beef roasts by common definition that can help guide you through your next home-cooked supper and spare you from pulling out of the oven what feels like cowhide in your mouth.
Chuck-eye and chuck shoulder roasts
Popular and comparatively inexpensive to other good cuts, the meat originates from the first five ribs closest to the head and also takes from the flesh around the shoulder blade bone as well. Both fat and connective tissues run high, even below the surface. It’s best when braised fully in beef stock, water or red wine. Or add at least an inch or two of liquid at the bottom of the roasting pan when baking.
Top round roast
Among the most common choices in major supermarkets, the meat turns out satisfying when either braised or roasted, and results in that classic roast beef flavor that pairs well with dark gravy. The cut is taken from the upper portion of the cow’s butt section.
Bottom round roast
Budget shoppers are attracted to its low price, but they’ll pull jaw muscles trying to chew it. Devoid of flavor and ridiculously rigid, the roast is cut from the butt section just above the back leg. All the braising in the world doesn’t bring it to palatable standards.
Top blade roast
A favorite among cooks for braising, given its rich flavor and juiciness, the meat is taken directly from the shoulder blade area and is usually sold in broad, flat cuts at modest prices. Throw it in a crock pot (if you still own one) with carrots, celery, onions and a cup or two of liquid, and we’re talking about one of the tastiest pot roasts money can buy.
Rib roasts
If you have some extra change to spare, these roasts are cut from between the sixth to ninth rib of the cow. Those coming from further back toward the loin end (ribs nine through 12) are typically very tender and flavorful. The meat gets a little fattier, however, in “the second cut,” a butcher term meaning that the meat taken from ribs six through nine. Both cuts respond well to dry roasting and slice up nicely when served hot or cold.
Tri-tip
Common in the Western states and sometimes called “triangle roast,” this single, mildly flavored muscle is found on the hindquarter of the cow where the sirloin tip and top sirloin come together. For best results, cut into “steak tips,” and then marinate before grilling or dry roasting, which helps alleviate some of its spongy texture.
Top sirloin roast
The cut provides big beefy flavor for reasonable cost and originates from the top butt section of the animal. Despite a vein of gristle that runs through it, the cut is a favorite among home cooks because it’s lean and generally tender and requires little or no seasoning when roasting.
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