Everything’s white and almost right at the new Alexander’s, which epicures have been stampeding since the day it opened a couple of months ago. A worthy contributor to North Park’s slothful renaissance, the small Italian restaurant delivers the kind of chic dining experience you’d expect to find in the newly fashionable Monti district of Rome.

The establishment’s walls, upholstery, table coverings and menus are all stark white. The only splashes of “color” are gray baby-doll dresses worn by the waitresses – a revival of the 60s mod look. And intimacy reigns over privacy, as tables are placed elbow to elbow in front of a single banquette that runs across a wall opposite the kitchen. Several high café tables and an L-shaped, marble-looking bar soak up the remaining space near the front windows. The outside patio is also tightly arranged, with high, white walls surrounding it.

Owner Alex Walter is a young, slender guy with Mediterranean features and long curly locks whose family operates the Old Venice Café in Point Loma. He jumps into the operational fray when the entrance starts clogging with customers and there isn’t a seat left in the house. As of last week, I was told reservations aren’t accepted. Yet friends of mine celebrating a birthday recently said they secured a table for their group – only to wait an hour before getting seated. Consolation came in the form of a very good meal, they reported, as best practices still apply within these small confines.

My companion and I whet our appetites with Fern Street Baked Feta and Hawthorne Stuffed Mushrooms. We preferred the former, a warm block of cheese (made from cow’s milk instead of sheep, we surmised), crowned with fresh pesto and sweet, sun-dried tomatoes. Our only caveat was that the plate begged for a sliced baguette to lop the soft mixture up with. We instead made do with thick chunks of complimentary garlic bread served in wire baskets. The mushrooms were, however, borderline bland and a little too cheesy. A spritz of fresh lemon, however, teased out the nuttiness of the Provolone and the sweetness of the crab and bay shrimp inside – although when I think of stuffed button caps, I count on mucho garlic and herbs compared to what these yielded.

From a short list of well-conceived salads, we chose the Spicy Caesar, a crisp and ravishing version of traditional Caesar boosted by plenty of garlic and cayenne pepper in a creamy dressing established some 26 years ago at Old Venice. We also tried the Greek Goddess with feta, tomatoes, cucumber, olives and the like. My companion declared ambivalence due to the lack of dressing, although I enjoyed the bursts of oregano and pepperoncini in the mix. (Grilled salmon or chicken can be added to the salads for an additional cost.)

Alexander’s bakes up the kind of pizzas that you eat with gusto when served fresh out of the oven, but then reheat at home and say, “This is the best pizza I’ve had in years.” The menu offers eight signature 13-inch pies, plus numerous options to craft your own. We chose the simple Vintage 356 Coupe – topped only with cheese and a faint drizzling of hot pepper oil. The dense, yeasty crust was superb, and the Mozzarella was pocked with bronzy toasted spots that lend a savory bitterness to pizzas when cooked at this proper high heat.

Having arrived in a maniacal carb-craving mode, we each chose pasta entrées representing the central and north regions of Italy. I struck gold with Baked Vodka Bolognaise, a permutation of the classic Bologna recipe using spicy crumbled sausage in lieu of pork, beef or veal – and rigatoni instead of spaghetti. Below the browned mantle of fennel-spiked sausage was a pinkish garlic-vodka sauce that tasted beautifully edgy because the alcohol, I suspect, wasn’t entirely burned off. And the marinara sauce we sampled on the side offered a starkly fresh tomato flavor that was full of life.

We would have never ordered the Walnut Gorgonzola had we known the “selected veggies” in the dish that day included broccoli, which oozed too much bitterness into the silky cheese sauce. The walnuts do a fine job of their own for adding astringency to strong cheese sauces. At the risk of pooh-poohing nutritional plant matter where it’s sometimes needed, I vote to get rid of all vegetables in heavily fatted pasta dishes such as this.

Protein entrées include Filet Mignon with Garlic Shrimp, Vegetable Risotto topped with salmon and pesto, Chicken Piccata and Chicken Florentine (which I’m hearing from friends is sensational).

Vino choices by the glass or bottle are limited, but encompass the major winemaking areas of the globe – Italy, Argentina and California. There’s also Sangria, served by the glass or pitcher, and a sparkling Brut Reserva (Marques de Monistrol) from Spain.

The dessert menu is decidedly uncomplicated. Your only choice – and it’s a good one – is a fresh, oven-baked walnut and chocolate chip cookie adjoined by vanilla bean ice cream. Just as you won’t miss the ubiquitous tiramisu and crème brûlée common to other Italian restaurants, Alexander’s helps you forget just as easily about spaghetti with meatballs drowned in flat tomato sauce.