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Antarctica
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Rainbow dollars
Gay travel takes center stage
Published Thursday, 07-Apr-2005 in issue 902
Remember when Spartacus was the only expert in gay travel, and on a rare occasion Lonely Planet would have a paragraph on “Notes for the Gay and Lesbian Traveler”? Welcome to a new world.
Glen Fishman of Community Marketing, Inc. in San Francisco knows gay travel. In the course of three minutes he could convince even the reddest of states to wake up and smell the money. Ninety-seven percent of gays and lesbians took vacations in the last 12 months, relative to 64 percent as the national average. Twenty percent of gay and lesbian travelers took cruises, relative to a national average of 2 percent. Eighty-four percent of gays and lesbians hold valid passports, compared with a national average of 29 percent. Fifty-three percent of gays and lesbians spent in excess of $5,000 per person on vacations this year, almost double that of the national average. While the national average of those who belong to airlines’ frequent flyer programs is only 25 percent, gays and lesbians average a membership of 67 percent. Eighty-six percent of gays and lesbians do at least one short U.S. destination trip (one to three nights), while almost half of all gays and lesbians reported three or more short U.S. destination trips. Eighty-one percent of gays and lesbians reported having taken at least one long trip (four-plus days) to Europe, while 12 percent reported taking two or more.
And frankly, $60 billion can’t all be wrong. Or so say the growing number of cities, both nationally and internationally, that are wooing the GLBT traveler.
Take online travel giants Orbitz and Travelocity, for example. They were among the first companies to produce television and print ads aimed at the GLBT traveler in mainstream media. Both sites even have comprehensive gay and lesbian travel directories, ranging from Atlantis cruise discounts to Olivia Cruise’s All-Women Alaska Cruise packages (800-631-6277).
RSVP Vacations offers both cruises and tours. In July they have an 11-day tour and cruise starting in Prague and finishing in Budapest. Other tours and cruises in 2005 include Ireland, Istanbul, Athens, Alaska, Peru and Tahiti (800-328-7787).
Aquafest GLBT Group Cruise Events has a Mexican Riviera cruise leaving out of San Diego on April 16. Other upcoming cruises include an Alaskan Cruise in September and a Halloween cruise of the western Caribbean leaving on Oct. 30 (800-592-9058).
Brian Saltzburg, Travelocity’s vice-president for packages and cruising, helps explain how this trend came about – and how successful it has been for online travel companies.
“Basically, you have four main factors at play when you look at the GLBT market relative to the general population,” explains Saltzburg. “First, there is generally a higher discretionary income. Second, studies show that gays and lesbians take four or more trips a year. Third, the average dollar per transaction is significantly higher among gay and lesbian travelers, and, finally, gays and lesbians have the highest percentage usage of the Internet of any demographic in the U.S.”
Saltzburg also explains that travel destinations themselves are getting smarter about boosting their tourism dollars. Palm Springs and Mykonos may seem quite old school to many in the travel industry, though they both continue to draw GLBT travelers, and for good reason: comfort, acceptability, fun.
“In many ways, society is changing,” says Saltzburg. “Or, maybe society is just realizing that money is money.”
Marilyn Berger is a local travel consultant who has seen some great changes over the last five to 10 years.
“You know people are paying attention to the gay dollar when you start seeing ads coming from city convention centers,” says Berger. “And these cities are not limited to the San Francisco and South Beach. I mean, Minneapolis?”
“Halfway between L.A. and N.Y. – All the way out of the closet” is The Greater Minneapolis Convention and Visitor Association’s slogan for targeting GLBT travelers, launched along with the city’s official GLBT website, which can be navigated directly from the city’s official website.
“You know people are paying attention to the gay dollar when you start seeing ads coming from city convention centers. And these cities are not limited to the San Francisco and South Beach. I mean, Minneapolis?”
Two years ago, when Philadelphia released an ad showing Ben Franklin flying a rainbow-colored kite and touted its “gayborhood,” the city found itself in a maelstrom of controversy. Washington, D.C., followed quickly with “Where more than just the cherry blossoms come out.”
Lest one think the welcome mat has only been extended to GLBT travelers in blue-state cities, Berger assures that this is definitely not the case.
“While you won’t find a link to lesbian bars on the official Texas state tourism site,” says Berger, “there are plenty of cities in middle America that are reaching out to the GLBT travel community, and plenty of travel companies, too.”
Allura Tours and Cruises even offers a Labor Day 2005 “Cruise with Mom,” billed as an Alaskan journey honoring “the special relationship between parents and their gay sons and daughters.”
We’ve searched the globe, both near and far, and compiled a list of the “It” places for travel in 2005. We gathered a list of places near and far, with the hopes of addressing the growing diversity of the GLBT community (single persons, those in committed relationships, and families with children) and suggesting some not-so-familiar options. Sure, there’s San Francisco, New York, South Beach, Sydney, London, Bangkok and Rio. As those in the travel industry begin to branch out and offer more options specifically targeting the GLBT community though, it may just be the right time to broaden our travel horizons over the rainbow.
On the Strip, off the Strip: Vegas, baby!
The hottest place this summer is bound to be Las Vegas. Where else can you find Celine Dion, Elton John, Barry Manilow, lesbian-erotica La Femme (USA Today called it “A celebration of the artistry of the nude”), a fetish-filled festival called Zumanity, Queen’s We Will Rock You, ABBA-inspired Mamma Mia!, a Liberace Museum and a Gay (wedding) Chapel? Sin City, of course. And while the city had been on a path toward wooing families with children, even the quickest glance at the goings-on today and you know Sin City has returned to its roots: adult entertainment.
Accommodations
There are over 105,000 hotel rooms in Vegas. How to choose? Well, when you’re thinking about where your hard-earned dollars go, why not support those establishments that in-turn support GLBT causes. If you want to stay on the Strip, MGM Grand (800-929-1111) is a great place to lay your head for a disco nap. Plus, MGM/Mirage is the host hotel for Las Vegas Pride 2005 over Memorial Day weekend. It has all the glitz and glamour of Vegas. In fact, the MGM Grand is the second largest hotel in the world with over 5,000 rooms.
If you want to be near the Strip, but want a warmer feeling – and a lot less noise – the Blue Moon Resort (866-798-9194) is one of the hottest places in Vegas to stay. Owned and operated by the most charming man, John Hessing, the Blue Moon is Vegas’ premier gay resort. The pool and Jacuzzi area, complete with a 10-foot waterfall, make this a true oasis for your stay. And, it’s just minutes away from your favorite shows. The entire staff is there for one purpose: to make you feel at home. The resort offers both deluxe and parlor suites, and splurging a few dollars for the suite will be well worth it. Sundays are especially hot with the weekly T-dance and free barbecue. The small café at the resort will bend over backwards to get you what you need, from fresh fruit to yummy muffins. And yes, this resort is clothing optional. The resort also hosts a number of events throughout the year, so call ahead for a schedule or visit www.gaylesbiantimes.com for a link to their website.
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Iceland
Entertainment
Obviously, Vegas has no shortage of options for entertainment. From the classic Vegas lounge acts to the hottest celebrities, there is, literally, something for everyone. Mandalay Bay has one of the best performances of Mamma Mia! to hit stateside. Even if you hate ABBA music (and a lot of people walking in were moaning about that), you will love the show. It’s truly the crowd-pleaser, feel-good musical at Vegas. Cirque du Soleil is offering a pretty broad menu on the Strip these days: the majestic and breathtaking Mystere at Treasure Island; the amazing O at the Bellagio, choreographed by Debra Brown and Olympic gold-medalist Sylvie Freschette; the “other side of Cirque du Soleil” as it is called, Zumanity, which can only be thought of as a glorious flashback to the über-sexual underground cabarets of Berlin in the 1940s; and Ka, Cirque’s newest show that simply blows the mind.
Gay icons Celine Dion and Elton John alternate times at Caesar’s, and Barry Manilow reminds you on your trip as you glide along the monorail that he is at the Hilton. Comedians Penn and Teller are hilarious when they want to be, and equally offensive. People either love them or they hate them. And don’t miss Frank Marino in La Cage, a stalwart of Vegas entertainment. Marino, who is in the upcoming feature film Miss Congeniality 2, simply is Joan Rivers. Having never been seen in the same room at the same time, one wonders if they aren’t one in the same…
But no trip to Vegas would be complete without Elvis, or at least an Elvis-impersonator. They can be a dime a dozen on the Strip, but stop by a little dive called Barbary Coast Casino, located between the Flamingo and Bally’s, and see the real deal: Pete “Big Elvis” Valle, who actually claims to be the son of Elvis, having even appeared on Fox News to make his claim. The guy sure has a cult following, and there is no question that he loves what he does. Catch him between 3:00 and 6:00 p.m. every Tuesday through Friday. He’s the best-kept secret in Vegas showbiz!
Gay events
Vegas may have a relatively small gay community compared to cities like Los Angeles and San Francisco, but there is no shortage of events – or out-of-towners who come for them. Las Vegas Gay Rodeo is April 23-24. Bear Hunt weekend is just around the corner. Ms. World Leather is coming up in August. Vegas’ Imperial Court has one of the strongest – and flashiest – turnouts in the region.
Vegas has a number of gay bars, ranging from the high-energy dance club at Freezone to the Levi/leather bar the Eagle. Country and western lovers will have a blast at Backstreet, especially on Sunday afternoons. There are two transgender bars, Zingers and the Las Vegas Lounge. And, of course, there is Vegas’ oldest gay club, Gipsy.
And don’t forget about Krave, Las Vegas’ newest, hottest “alternative lifestyle” club. It’s got nights for the boys, nights for the girls, and big-name live performances to boot.
Getting there / getting around
Several airlines have direct flights from San Diego. If you like a nice drive through scenic deserts, enjoy the trip leisurely, but there is no need for a car once you get there. Most everything is within walking distance, or a short cab ride. There is also a monorail that runs the length of the Strip.
“Ninety-seven percent of gays and lesbians took vacations in the last 12 months, relative to 64 percent as the national average.”
Hottest cool places
Reykjavik, Iceland
If you only go to one Pride this year, be sure to hit San Diego’s. But if you’re looking for something a little “cooler,” check out Reykjavik’s Pride August 5-7. Last year over 40,000 participants enjoyed the festivities, including an open-air concert. With a population of around 150,000, Reykjavik is a very inviting and warm spot to find yourself. One of the first things you’ll find is how open and inviting the Icelandic people are – almost every establishment in the main part of Reykjavik has a rainbow flag in the window. Even Iceland Air features stories on Reykjavik’s annual Pride festivities. The Hotel Fron has a friendly staff and great rooms reminiscent of the Vikings. Expect to pay about $200 to $250 a night. There is a gay resort in Iceland called Room With a View, and most rooms do have stunning views (though in Iceland everything seems to be a stunning view). The one downside to Room With a View is that it isn’t really in the heart of Reykjavik.
Mokka Kaffi was Reykjavik’s first café, and is a delight to spend a few hours sampling the local pastries and coffee or hot chocolate. Keep in mind that in August, you’re looking at 20-plus hours of sunlight a day, which may make this the true White Party, so bring some sleep shades. As for nightclubs, there seems to be little to no distinction between gay and straight clubs. That is, clubs are clubs in Reykjavik, and you’ll find anyone and everyone dancing with whomever at most any of the nightclubs. The one nighttime adventure that can’t be missed is MSC Iceland, a leatherman’s club hosted on Friday and Saturday. Unfortunately, it’s men only, and you have to ring the bell to be admitted, but it’s hot, hot, hot!
During the day, enjoy a day trip around the island via Mountain Taxi, including a half-day dog sledding excursion or snowmobiling out on one of the glaciers ($250 for a full day tour). Make sure your driver takes you to one of the many spectacular waterfalls. The most famous, of course, is Gullfoss (think last season’s “Amazing Race”). If you do nothing at all but stroll around, you must at the very least spend the day out at the Blue Lagoon, one of the world’s most famous geothermal spas. It’s heaven. Oh, and yes, if you are a golfer, the commercials are true. You can golf at midnight – proper attire is still required. Getting to Iceland really leaves you one option: Iceland Air. However, gay travel companies are beginning to develop tours, including Alyson Adventures.
Antarctica
By far, the hottest “cool” place to go is the Great White Continent, Antarctica. While there are a number of cruise ships that cater to the final frontier, one of the best ships that makes the journey is Orient Line’s Marco Polo. It’s an eclectic set of cruisers that gather on the flagship liner, with an old-style air about them. When I went in 2001, tablemates included maverick aviation mogul Sir Freddie Laker and his wife, marine artist Scott Hanson and nutrition guru Dr. Andrew Weil. Your journey starts from Ushuaia on Tierra del Fuego, and heads on a two-and-a-half day journey across some of the world’s most treacherous waters of the Drake Passage. Once you reach the Great White Continent, the cruising really starts. Because of a number of ecological laws, visitors to Antarctica are limited in number, so take it all in. Recommended activity: take a swim in the waters on one of your shore excursions. For the slightly less adventurous, take along a copy of Bishop Joseph Hall’s early 17th century masterpiece Another World and Yet the Same for reading in the top deck’s outdoor Jacuzzi as you cruise past the splendor of the last unspoiled land. Expect costs to run around $5,000 per person, minimum. Olivia Cruises also offers packages for lesbian travelers, who are often indulged with performances by k.d. lang or the Indigo Girls. Finally, Out on the Water, which tends to cater to the more outdoorsy gay and lesbian traveler, has an upcoming 14-day Antarctica Adventure in December.
Mammoth
If you don’t have the time to head off around the globe, but still want to get away for some snow-topped scenery, check out the slopes at Mammoth. Mountains can still be skied until the first of June. After that, the area turns into one of the hottest mountain biking sites around, before resuming to its white-capped pleasure around October. Nestled in a beautiful valley in the magnificent eastern slopes of California’s High Sierras, Mammoth is surrounded by snow-covered mountain peaks and glittering alpine meadows. While Elevation Mammoth (the GLBT ski weekend at Mammoth) is generally held in early March, every weekend is gay weekend at Mammoth. There are four primary slope-side resorts in Mammoth, and all are equally pleasant. The Juniper Springs Resort has the most “remote escape” feeling, while the Village at Mammoth is set right in the thick of things, so if you twist your ankle tumbling down the mountain, you can still hobble to the nearest pub for sympathy. Daily lift tickets start at $50 per person, or $425 for the season. Rental rates for equipment are reasonable. As locals say, “What makes Mammoth so special is its world-famous bowls, gentle groomed trails, steep chutes, secluded tree runs and plenty of California sunshine.” Just don’t feed the bears!
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Mammoth
Coolest hot places
Palm Springs
If you’ve got to get away for the weekend, and just need some casual R&R, Palm Springs is it. Give or take a little traffic, the drive can range from two hours to two-and-a-half. And, frankly, there really are few gayer places on the map. It is estimated that nearly one-third or more of the residents are gay or lesbian, and Palm Springs includes their mayor, openly gay African-American Ronald Oden. Palm Springs, which really had its debut as an oasis escape around the time of Howard Hughes, maintains an eclectic feel. The Easter weekend White Party brings thousands to the city, as does the Dinah Shore Golf Tournament. The numbers vary, but there are somewhere between 30 and 40 all-gay resorts, so to single a few out would be unfair. Each resort has its niche, some are clothing optional, others have adult entertainment films being shot around the clock, and others are more laid back and celebrate a quiet day by the poolside for you and a loved one, or sunning while reading the hysterical new book Dinah! Three Decades of Sex, Golf, and Rock ’n’ Roll. Check out www.gaylesbiantimes.com for a listing of many of these resorts, or seek out their ads in the Gay & Lesbian Times – many of them offer specials that you wouldn’t want to miss.
What Palm Springs has to offer is diversity. If you like to golf, there are few better places within reach of San Diego. If you like to shop, but hate L.A. traffic, hit the shops in Palm Springs. And if you love outlet malls, Desert Hills Premium Outlet in Cabazon (20 minutes west of Palm Springs on I-10) may require considerable self-restraint. If you like farmers markets and artists fairs, there’s truly one every weekend. The natural surroundings of the city seem to inspire creativity rare among local artists of other regions. If you consider yourself a more outdoorsy kind of traveler, the hiking and biking is beyond compare. Hook up with the Different Spokes Bicycling Club for a great – and casual, non-competitive – crowd to explore the surrounding areas. As for food, Zin, Wang’s in the Desert, Spike and Hamburger Mary’s all satisfy different appetites, from the upscale, to the California-fusion, to the urban bistro, to the camp, respectively. Palms Springs has a host of gay bars, but strangely, is lacking in the lesbian bar area. Most lesbians end up at Toucan’s. Whatever you do, though, leave the Celebrity Bus Tours to the red state visitors. Just pretend you’re a celebrity… because when you’re in Palm Springs, it’s hard not to feel like one.
African safari
Sure you’ve been to the Wild Animal Park, and you’ve even closed the Zoo Party. But if you’re really looking for a wild time, check out any number of the gay-friendly African safaris. Dozens of safari groups operate out of Tanzania, Kenya and South Africa, and many offer gay-friendly or exclusively gay trips. RSVP Vacations and Our Way Travel and Safaris offer several choices for gay and lesbian travelers to Africa. There are few things quite as magical as sitting quietly outside of Nairobi under the same tree as Karen Blixen and her lover, Denys Finch-Hatton. There are few things quite as disturbing as standing in Zanzibar in a small chapel that once was the central whipping post of one of Africa’s most thriving slave trades and where Dr. Henry Livingston left his heart – both figuratively and literally. While gay-sex laws exist in Tanzania, it shouldn’t be crossed off the list of possibilities. There’s just too much history to be seen and natural splendor to be admired. For a comfortable place to stay in Zanzibar, check out the gay-friendly Emerson and Green Hotel in Stone Town. And the view from the top-floor restaurant defies description, which is fine, since you’ll not be talking much while you savor the amazing cuisine offered. There are few things quite as enraging as visiting the prison where Nelson Mandela was held. If you are going to Cape Town, South Africa (and this is highly recommended for the amazing history of our times), there is no better beach in Africa than the Sandy Bay Beach, just outside the city, but a world apart from the bustle. Botswana is also one of the up-and-coming African safari spots. A number of tours operate organized gay and lesbian safaris, including Gay2Afrika, which has a number of options, including a 10-day safari starting around $2,700, air included.
Seychelles
Some have called it the original Garden of Eden. Located over 1,000 miles from either the African or Indian coasts, the Seychelles is a romantic paradise. If you want to support the tsunami efforts – and get a great deal at the same time – there is no better place to start than the main island of Mahe. Flights into Victoria are down by more than 75 percent, and for a country that relies on tourism almost exclusively for its GNP, there is no better time to go. Scuba divers will find the islands a virtual Mecca, while those who love the beach are unlikely to find more pristine waters anywhere in the world. Le Meridien has a paradise resort on Beau Vallon Bay Beach, but rooms run upwards of $500 a night. For the more reasonable rates, stay at the Allamanda, a hot new colonial-style hotel on a private beach that reminds you of the decadence of what you’re really doing! The local art carvings and weavings are gorgeous – and reasonably priced. One thing to remember, bargaining is an expected process. It is an honored process. But in today’s troubled times in that region, bargain gently. Recommended activity: fresh fruit brunch on the beach at the Emerald Resort followed by snorkeling or a good book under a Banyan tree.
Joshua Tree National Park
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Las Vegas
If you want the warm days and cool nights, but don’t want to take out a second mortgage, head out the I-10 East to Joshua Tree National Park. Pack plenty of sunscreen and layer, layer, layer. While the temperatures can hit in excess of a 100 degrees in the day, expect chilly, cuddle-inspiring lows at night. The park was established in 1994 by then-President Clinton as part of his protection of California desert parks. It has both Mojave and Colorado Desert areas. The Joshua tree (a member of the lily family) was named after the biblical leader Joshua by Mormon pioneers who believed the trees reminded them of Joshua’s heavenly up-stretched arms. Pack a tent, lots of blankets, sensible hiking boots and a boa! After all, who could resist a place that boasts the Desert Queen Ranch as one of its main attractions! For fun, take along a copy of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert with your portable DVD player and make believe you’re Down Under…
For a complete list of websites, visit www.gaylesbiantimes.com and access links for complete travel information on the destinations featured above.
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