As summer and fall fade into a crisp and wet Southern California winter, we San Diegans don’t have far to look for warmer weather. Gays and lesbians from Southern California race to the desert for a few more months of summer, as do our brothers and sisters in cities throughout the country. But how much do we really know about this desert beauty and the allure it has over us as a community? Why are we drawn again and again to this gay mecca? Is it the climate or that it’s home to both the White Party and Dinah Shore? Maybe it’s the history, or the multitude of gay-friendly resorts, restaurants and bars. Regardless, add it all together and it’s easy to see why Palms Springs is the ideal winter getaway.

For centuries Palm Springs’ original inhabitants, the Aqua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Native Americans, established their village around the natural hot mineral springs during the winter months, shifting to the canyons during the extreme summer months. This tribe also named the area La Palma de la Mano de Dios, which translates to “the palm of God’s hand.” Explorers and colonizers passed through this oasis in 1853, and the United States Topographical Engineers labeled the parcel Palm Springs. Yet that name didn’t stick until 1890.

A doctor from nearby Banning, Wellwood Murray, opened the very first hotel in Palm Springs, which was called, aptly enough, The Palm Springs Hotel. Located directly across the road was a Native American bathhouse; guests of The Palm Springs Hotel could take full advantage of its healing waters. Ah, the first piece of the gay puzzle! Gays and bathhouses are as synonymous as, well, gays and bathhouses!

A more likely analogy for how gays and lesbians first became enchanted by the desert oasis has Tinsel Town connections. Palm Springs became tantamount to a playground for the stars as early as 1919. By the 1950s, celebrities such as Frank Sinatra, Bing Crosby, Bob Hope and Lucille Ball were frequent desert dwellers.

Palm Springs is boxed in by the Santa Rosa Mountains to the south, the San Jacinto Mountains to the west and the smaller San Bernardino Mountains to the north. This geography gives Palm Springs its famous warm, dry climate, which sees 354 days of sunshine and less than 6 inches of rain annually. This topography is evocative of why we flock there: We feel safe, sheltered on all sides and more than ready for some hot nights. Simply put, we have a love affair with Palm Springs.

To find out when our tribe became a noticeable presence in Palm Springs, and what makes this desert oasis the perfect getaway, we asked several resort owners and the Desert Gay Tourism Guild.

“Since The Villa became the first gay resort in the Coachella Valley in the early ’70s,” says Reuel Olin, owner of The Villa, “Palm Springs has become one of the great international gay destinations. Not only are there scores of gay hotels now, catering to the diversity of the community, but a large percentage of the residents are gay and lesbian, as well as the city councils for Palm Springs and Cathedral City. In addition, the fact that Palm Springs is a tourist playland with all that campy movie star history, and is in easy commuting distance to great populations of gay people, such as San Diego and Los Angeles, [and] is experiencing a huge migration of gay men and lesbian homebuyers… well, there’s a certain inevitability that it would be a GLBT mecca, isn’t there?”

Ricardo Gomez of the Desert Gay Tourism Guild estimates that Palm Springs sees approximately 100,000 GLBT visitors a year, averaging 7,500 guests a month during the winter months. When asked what he felt the desert appeal was, he answered, “The year-round weather [and] the variety of events and activities geared toward our community year round; over 30 gay and lesbian hotels dedicated to providing the best possible GLBT vacation experience; an open-minded community, which is very accepting of diversity; [and] our openly gay mayor and three City Council members. Another important fact about Palm Springs is that everything is only minutes away, no need to fight traffic.

“Palm Springs weather is constant whether it is winter or summer,” he continues. “It has ideal weather for outdoor activities year round; sun worshipping a la naturalist or not. When the weather is unbearable in other parts of the country, Palm Springs has the best in the nation.”

Ray Nocera, owner of the gay resort Century Palm Springs, says, “Palm Springs is a natural escape for the gay and lesbian community. Modern design mixed with old-world charm of Spanish styles make for a great blend for any taste. Set all that into one of the most beautiful settings with an almost perfect year-round climate makes this a great [gay and lesbian] mecca.”

He adds, “We also have a wonderfully supportive police department for the gay community. Great restaurants, hiking, sunning, shopping: What more can you ask for? Even in the heat of summer, Palm Springs is becoming a destination. For those that cannot live here but want to get away from the big city for a weekend, hot, hot temperatures are easier to handle for a two- or three-day stay.”

Greg Hay, the front desk manager of CCBC, a clothing-optional gay resort, has this take: “One reason Palm Springs is such a mecca for the gay community is the influx of gay and gay-friendly businesses over the past several years. The enormous amount of gay people that I noticed when I first visited Palm Springs was quite like the first time I visited San Francisco or Ft. Lauderdale. However, the difference is that people seem … more friendly and sincere. The actual fact that you can go anywhere in this city and be greeted with a smile and a hello is outstanding!”

“Many gays and lesbians have visited Palm Springs on vacation, and like it so much, it has become an option for retirement,” says Charles Ching of All Worlds Resort. “Today, it is one of the largest gay vacation and retirement communities in the U.S.”

“As you drive through the city you will see gay flags flying in the warm desert breeze,” say Joanna Funaro and Denise Roberson, owners of Casitas Laquita, a lesbian-friendly resort. “The mixture of antique stores and art galleries make it a shopper’s haven, if you are in the mood to wander through the alleys and main streets. If you are in the market for a new place to live, many developers are catering to the gay and lesbian market, placing ads featuring same-sex couples. If you want to dance the night away, go to a movie, gamble or see a drag show, we have it all.

“For the outdoors types, the desert has miles of hiking trails. For those who want some help, you can take a ride on our tram up the mountain and have lunch 8,000 feet above the desert floor. After a day in the sun, you can sip a martini and have a fine dinner at one of our many gay-owned restaurants, [and] meet new friends from all over the world.”

Las Palmas Hotel co-owner Tony Spleen adds, “Palm Springs has a long history of being gay friendly, and in recent years we’ve seen an incredible boom in the number of gay people visiting, as well as relocating to our desert oasis. But, also, the number and quality of businesses catering to the gay community have expanded considerably. Many of the services and amenities that our community takes for granted in major metropolitan areas are now available here in the desert.”

Now that the locals have convinced you that Palm Springs makes for one great winter getaway, you have a decision to make: Where to stay among the myriad of resort choices? There’s something for everyone in Palm Springs and the surrounding areas of Warm Sands and Cathedral City. From four-star, cater-to-your-every-whim establishments to the fun and frivolity of the stay-and-play venues, the desert has a lot to offer.

The Gay & Lesbian Times asked several resorts what their establishments have to offer. Here’s a little bit about these fine resorts and what they can provide.

The Villa, located at 67-670 Carey Rd. in Cathedral City, has stylishly remodeled casitas, a 12-person Jacuzzi, a heated pool, a gym and 24-hour concierge service.

“Since we purchased The Villa Resort two years ago as a lovely but aging property, we have invested $3 million in its renovation, because we believed we could create something extraordinary,” says Olin. “Not only unique to Palm Springs, but, we think, to the international gay and lesbian traveler as well. And in a few weeks, the dream will finally be realized. Imagine a pet-friendly, five-acre, full-service gay and lesbian hotel with 45 beautifully designed casitas, each with private patios and outdoor fireplace; champagne brunch served every day; gourmet dinners in a 150-seat restaurant and an extensive bar menu; room service; two huge bars [and] the V Lounge; a tented cabaret lounge [and] main stage, featuring star performers loved by the gay community, and professionally mounted musicals and musical revues; a gym; a fully equipped and serviced day spa on premises; a grotto and gardens for commitment and other ceremonies; complementary property-wide wi-fi access and dedicated guest computers and meeting rooms for groups. The list goes on, but it boils down to making The Villa experience a pampered and wish-fulfilling time in paradisiacal Palm Springs.”

Century Palm Springs, located at 598 Grenfall Rd. in Palm Springs, is a modern, hip resort, and is furnished by the finest contemporary designers. Each suite has a private patio, full kitchen and sitting area. Nocera expands on what he has to offer to make for an unforgettable Palm Springs vacation: “Customer service Friendly and accommodating service is what we strive for at Century Palm Springs. We try to give people what they don’t expect, giving them more … great comfortable beds, 400-thread count sheets, gourmet coffee, great breakfasts, daily cocktail hour, all in an attentive atmosphere, but allowing the guests the space and quiet they want in a vacation. Perfect for couples and singles that are accustomed to four-star service and accommodations.”

All Worlds Resort, located at 526 Warm Sands Dr. in Warm Sands, has courtyard gardens, three pools and Jacuzzis, the largest steam room in Palm Springs, plus a very special bonus. Ching explains, “Because of the more pervasive and tolerant attitude of Palm Springs, and the fact [that] over 51 percent of the population is gay, All Worlds Video found a natural fit with the community. Rick Ford [All Worlds Video president] has always had a special fondness for Palm Springs, and when the opportunity came along, he envisioned a resort for gay men – clothing optional, of course – that combines the resources of the video company, and offers our guests a chance to meet their favorite porn stars during their visit – and possibly experience the actual shooting of a video at the resort. All Worlds Resort also provides its guests with luxurious accommodations and four-star amenities to pamper our guests who come back to the resort on a regular basis.”

CCBC is an expansive resort with over three acres and scores of clothing-optional delights, such as a nude beach, waterfalls and “The Walk.” It’s located at 68369 Sunair Rd. in Cathedral City.

“Palm Springs is definitely a unique experience alone and offers many different resorts catering to the gay community,” says Hay, “However, CCBC is most unique in what I consider to be the playground for gay men. We host many events and parties, and our clientele is 80-percent return, not only because of our fabulous staff, but also the fun and frisky atmosphere here. Plus, we are the largest world-renowned resort in the valley! It amazes me how many guys stay elsewhere but come here to hang out.”

Casitas Laquita is a lesbian-friendly inn, located at 450 East Palm Canyon Dr. in Palm Springs. Upon arrival, guests receive a gift basket, and the ladies can enjoy private areas for outdoor dining and barbecues. Plus, there is an extra-large pool and ample space for soaking up the sun.

“In 1998, Casitas Laquita opened its doors,” Funaro and Roberson explain. “The hotel has been a popular place for lesbians and their friends to stay. The resort has a very relaxed and tranquil atmosphere. The stunning mountain views [and] large grounds with a fish-shaped pool welcome old and new guests. The hotel has 15 rooms, many of them larger suites. One of the suites is the romance suite with a private yard and spa. That room is booked almost every weekend; you must make reservations months in advance during our season, which begins in October and ends in July. Once you enter the private gate, the spirit of Casitas Laquita calms and relaxes the body and soul. We offer massage treatments in the privacy of your room. Every room has a full kitchen; some rooms have fireplaces. If you feel the need to stay in contact with the outside world, the hotel has free wireless connection in [the rooms] and on the grounds.”

Las Palmas Hotel has undergone an extensive renovation and now offers a diverse and elegant, albeit unpretentious atmosphere for gay men in search of comfort, relaxation and even romance. It is located in the Uptown area of Palm Springs, at 1404 North Palm Canyon Dr.

“One of the great things about Palm Springs is that it offers almost 30 lodging options for gay travelers,” says Spleen. “Each hotel is unique, so there is literally something for everyone here. … We have the same great linens and beds used by the Four Seasons and Ritz Carlton, but the overall atmosphere at our hotel is quite relaxed and casual. We serve breakfast daily and complimentary cocktails at our poolside bar on weekends. We’re also one of the only pet-friendly gay resorts in Palm Springs. We’ve been honored with a five-Palm rating from Out & About, and we’re also one of only four hotels in Palm Springs that are members of World’s Foremost Gay and Lesbian Hotels.”

The nightlife in Palm Springs is filled with as many choices as any metropolitan enclave, from dining-out options to where to shake it and not break it on the dance floor. Yet the attitude when frequenting a bar or dance club seems unfettered and less pretentious.

Of course, there are good times to be had at Hunters, Heaven, Sidewinders, Streetbar, The Tool Shed, Badlands, The Barracks and Toucan’s Tiki Lounge. But there is also a new kid on the block.

Club Whatever has opened its doors in Cathedral City, and its location should be familiar to those that frequented Ground Zero, as it has taken over the space. Here’s what Club Whatever has to spice up your nightlife: Every Saturday night there’s a popular drag show entitled Drag-O-Rama with Cherilyn, who is apparently Palm Springs’ answer to Cher (this seems appropriate since Cher’s late ex husband, Sonny Bono, was once the mayor). Also on board are the hilarious and quite campy The Troupers, who guest star on the first Saturday of each month. Starting in November, you can check them out at 36-737 Cathedral Canyon Dr.

Before you dance the night away, you’ve got to build up your strength, and that’s where the plethora of eateries comes into play. There is cuisine from such GLBT staples as Blame It On Midnight, Rainbow Cactus or Shame On The Moon, or try one of the many Thai restaurants. If Pan-Asian cuisine is your thing, then definitely stop into Wang’s In the Desert. But if you’re homesick, no need to worry, because there’s a Hamburger Mary’s, too. You can also get your swerve on at Plum’s Martini Bar & Restaurant. Personally, no trip to Palm Springs would be complete without at least one visit to Rick’s Restaurant for their ahi tuna sandwich, seared to perfection, rolled in sesame seeds and served with a side of ginger. It always hits the spot.

If you’re like us, there’s only so much lying poolside and soaking up the rays you can handle. So what else is there to do in Palm Springs? Desert Gay Tourism Guild’s expert Ricardo Gomez cites hiking through canyons, jeep rides, cycling, the Gay and Lesbian Film Festival, the Dinah Shore Golf Classic and shopping.

One of the most popular excursions has you ascend 2.5 miles for a scenic view of the Coachella Valley – which, in layman’s terms, means going for a ride on the famous P`lm Springs Aerial Tramway. A visit to Joshua Tree National Monument is a picturesque way to while away some hours. The aforementioned hiking can be done at Indian Canyons. The Living Desert is an incredible 1,200-acre reserve of scenic trails and exhibits, and is described as “a zoo, only better.” If you’re not afraid of heights, try a balloon flight from Desert Balloon Charters or a helicopter tour from HeliAir.

Is cash burning a hole in your pocket? Well, you have a few options. With four different casinos, there’s a whole other way to get lucky in the desert. If you have an itch to shop, scratch it at the Desert Hills Premium Outlets. But, if you want to keep it in the family, then it’s off to GayMart USA, Mischief or Q Trading Company.

If you fortuitously scheduled a vacation in Palm Springs during the weekend of Nov. 4-6, then you may notice throngs of people. That’s because it’s the 19th annual Greater Palm Springs Pride! This year’s theme is “It Starts With You!” and the Greater Palm Springs, Inc. will contribute to an array of organizations, including the AIDS Assistance Program.

Palm Springs Pride started out innocuously as a picnic within the women’s community at The Desert Palms Inn. Eventually, it grew large enough to warrant both a festival and Pride parade. Today, it sees 30,000 to 40,000 people, and its festival features two dance floors (trance dance and country), main-stage entertainment (our very own S.D. Drag Kings will be performing on Saturday, Nov. 5), 16 food vendors and an author’s village. Those scheduled to read from their tomes and discuss the state of GLBT publishing include Christopher Rice and Secrets of a Gay Marine Porn Star’s Rich Merritt, among others.

The Pride parade commences on Sunday, Nov. 6, at 10:00 a.m. at Alejo South and ends at Ramon Road.

And what Pride would be complete without some form of a bringin’ down the house party? Heaven and PSA Entertainment are proud (no pun intended) to present Ascension, featuring the DJ stylings of Kimberly S., Joe Gauthreaux and DJ Nineteen69, on Friday. Saturday will feature Phil B. of San Francisco, and catch a live performance by Amber on Sunday.

We wondered if there was a most-asked question posed to Gomez, and his answer perfectly encapsulates the Palm Springs experience: “The question asked most often is, ‘When is the best time to come to Palm Springs?’ The answer is, ‘Anytime is the best time.’ Regardless of the time of year, the GLBT visitor will always experience the weather and great hospitality. Palm Springs is fun and exciting or relaxing and rejuvenating, it just depends on the visitor’s desires and needs. Everything we do here is done Palm Springs style, a style that cannot be duplicated anywhere else.”